So time and time again I find myself reading posts from other bloggers giving their "expert" opinion on how to choose a concealer, how to apply it and shades you should use.. In my honest opinion and experience on myself and clients, I prefer using a concealer shade that's closest to or is the exact shade of my foundation. Why you ask? well, it just doesn't make sense to put a shade lighter concealer on a blemish. All you're doing is brightening the blemish and bringing attention to it. of course you don't want to go darker. You'll just look like you have dirt on your face.
Instead I find using the same color as your foundation helps to cover best. Remember, concealer is pretty much foundation. it's just thicker and therefore leaves better coverage or more coverage this is why it's recommended by many to use foundation first then concealer. 1. you use less foundation, 2. you also use less concealer (if you apply before foundation chances are you will rub most of it off and have to reapply. Also, when foundation is on first, you can see what it didn't cover then apply your concealer. Foundation can sometimes do a lot on it's own)
For concealer under the eyes I prefer to use a warm shade concealer. For example, In MAC I use NC42 in Studio Sculpt foundation. My face concealer is also NC42 in Studio Sculpt but my under eye concealer is NW25 in Select Moisturecover (I use select moisturecover because I tend to get dry patches under my eyes during the winter/fall). I use a warm tone concealer under my eyes because orange combats blue (under eye circles are usually blue-ish purple) warm tones=red/orange undertone. Some people like to use yellow color corrector which is also okay to do because yellow combats purple.
I understand some of you may want to brighten your under eye area which is fine but I wouldn't suggest using concealer that's 2 and 3 shades lighter than your shade even one shade lighter can be a little difficult for some to pull off. Instead, use a highlighting cream (benefit's High Beam) or flash cream (smashbox) or strob liquid (MAC).
Hope this gives a bit of understanding to some.
XOXO Mel.
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
L'Oreal HIP-Cream Liners. Are they really any good?
I absolutely adore the L'Oreal HIP cream liners. they're a lot like paint pots and similar to fluid line from MAC.
Not only have I used The HIP cream liners as liners but I've also applied them to my entire lid. They work wonderfully without eye primer and after 5 hours there's not a crease in site!
The only issue I have with these pots of goodness is that they are a bit thicker than a gel. They are more like a cream a thick cream that you have to work supper fast with.. Like 5-10 seconds fast unlike most fast drying gel liners (usually gives you about 30 seconds of play time)
The HIP cream liners were very creamy when i first purchased them. Don't get me wrong, they're still creamy just a bit dryer than they were originally hence making them a bit tougher to work with.
Some people rather a denser product, giving them more control. (loser creams are often easier to glide but if you slip with the hand you can easily make a tremendous mess) So it's really just a matter of personal preference so I guess it's not really an issue after all. It's more of a what you're in the mood for? quick drying thicker formula or something that gives you some extra time to move around and glides on with less effort.
As far as using these cream liners as a base or a shadow, there is really no issue at all. They lay perfectly and give great color payoff no matter how long you have them :)
Also, please keep in mind, if you were to use this product daily, chances are you'll run out before any sort drying occurs (and there's a ton of product in these cute glass jars so I mean EVERY DAY). Unlike myself, I don't have enough eyes to use products on in order to run out of them :(
XOXO
Mel
Not only have I used The HIP cream liners as liners but I've also applied them to my entire lid. They work wonderfully without eye primer and after 5 hours there's not a crease in site!
The only issue I have with these pots of goodness is that they are a bit thicker than a gel. They are more like a cream a thick cream that you have to work supper fast with.. Like 5-10 seconds fast unlike most fast drying gel liners (usually gives you about 30 seconds of play time)
The HIP cream liners were very creamy when i first purchased them. Don't get me wrong, they're still creamy just a bit dryer than they were originally hence making them a bit tougher to work with.
Some people rather a denser product, giving them more control. (loser creams are often easier to glide but if you slip with the hand you can easily make a tremendous mess) So it's really just a matter of personal preference so I guess it's not really an issue after all. It's more of a what you're in the mood for? quick drying thicker formula or something that gives you some extra time to move around and glides on with less effort.
As far as using these cream liners as a base or a shadow, there is really no issue at all. They lay perfectly and give great color payoff no matter how long you have them :)
Also, please keep in mind, if you were to use this product daily, chances are you'll run out before any sort drying occurs (and there's a ton of product in these cute glass jars so I mean EVERY DAY). Unlike myself, I don't have enough eyes to use products on in order to run out of them :(
XOXO
Mel
Friday, April 10, 2009
Brushes brushes brushes!!! do we really need them?
Why do we need makeup brushes?
Why can't we just use sponge tip applicators or just sponges alone?
The truth is, we can use sponges and applicators but not for every look and or product. foundation sponges are great for patting down and or blending your foundation and still this is not required for all foundations. I mostly sponge pat on foundation fresh faces (even mine) when I'm using a thick, creamy sometimes greasy foundation. You don't have to pat down powder foundation (unless you have oily skin and see the separation from the oils and makeup. Pat girl pat! you can't have any of that.. it's funky) You also don't need to pat tinted moisturizers. Even some liquid ones don't need patting. The reason for the patting method, is to help the skin absorb the makeup instead of looking like it's just laying on your skin. Patting also helps to blend the foundation with just a soft patting motion.
Eye shadow applicators are nice too BUT shouldn't be used for serious blend jobs. Eye shadow Applicators are good for laying down the shadow, creating a clean shape, and even smoothing the harsh lines. As I said, I wouldn't try blending multiple colors with sponge tip applicators. Unless you truly forgot your brushes and had only what the eyeshadow came with which is usually sponge tip applicators.. Pray to the fashion God for help in your blending because you're going to need it!
Now moving onto brushes!
I love brushes! not all brushes though. some I find annoying or even pointless.. There are others that at first glance I loved them but didn't like how they were supposed to be used or the results they delivered just were not satisfying.
Must have brushes: EYES-
*Basic shadow brush of medium size that can grab color properly and deposit it to your lid. This brush should be slightly firm. I use the 252 brush from MAC (I find it very necessary to own this brush or one like it)
*Blending brush should be soft but sturdy so that you're able to control the bristles and have the shadow go where you want it to go. I use the 217 and or the 224 brush from MAC. I prefer the 217 because it is much more dense than the 224 but the 224 is great for subtle color deposit. These brushes blend the harsh line the basic shadow brush can leave however, in my experience I have used the 252 brush from MAC for light blending of harsh lines and has proved to be effective. (because of the semi stiffness of this brush beware of over blending. You can irritate/scratch the lid)
*Small shadow brush for those hard to reach corners and/or depositing shadow to the inner eye and lower lash line. (I use a small rounded very stiff brush from Sonia Kashuk- I LOVE this brush it can even be used as a liner brush)
*If you use gel liner or would like to use shadow to line you lids and lower lash line it would be good to invest in an angled liner brush like the 208 brush from MAC. I find this brush to be most helpful in achieving a straight line. I've used the 209 form MAC (the pointed liner brush but it requires a lot of precision and steady hand movement)
Must have brushes:FACE-
*Foundation brush-depending on the type of foundation you use. Whenever I use liquid foundation I use a
*Stippling brush (MAC, Sephora, Coastal Scents and even Walgreen's have them. They are great!)
If I'm using cream foundation, I use a
*190 brush from MAC (It looks like a paint brush)
If I'm using powder foundation I use a powder brush like the
*129 brush from MAC
or the
*168 angled brush from MAC -this brush is made for blush and contouring but I have used it for powdering my face as well. I also use this brush for contouring and blush and sometimes with my setting powder.
I don't think it's necessary to buy lip brushes unless your a Makeup Artist (we don't apply lipstick from the tube onto clients). But if you personally like the effect the brush leaves by all means go ahead and purchase that brush!
I think these are all the brushes for now. I'll be sure to update this blog if I notice anything missing or come across something new :)
**Please note: It is not necessary to purchase MAC brushes, there are many brushes out there that are just as good. I used MAC brushes as suggestions and examples because those are the ones I use and like.
Why can't we just use sponge tip applicators or just sponges alone?
The truth is, we can use sponges and applicators but not for every look and or product. foundation sponges are great for patting down and or blending your foundation and still this is not required for all foundations. I mostly sponge pat on foundation fresh faces (even mine) when I'm using a thick, creamy sometimes greasy foundation. You don't have to pat down powder foundation (unless you have oily skin and see the separation from the oils and makeup. Pat girl pat! you can't have any of that.. it's funky) You also don't need to pat tinted moisturizers. Even some liquid ones don't need patting. The reason for the patting method, is to help the skin absorb the makeup instead of looking like it's just laying on your skin. Patting also helps to blend the foundation with just a soft patting motion.
Eye shadow applicators are nice too BUT shouldn't be used for serious blend jobs. Eye shadow Applicators are good for laying down the shadow, creating a clean shape, and even smoothing the harsh lines. As I said, I wouldn't try blending multiple colors with sponge tip applicators. Unless you truly forgot your brushes and had only what the eyeshadow came with which is usually sponge tip applicators.. Pray to the fashion God for help in your blending because you're going to need it!
Now moving onto brushes!
I love brushes! not all brushes though. some I find annoying or even pointless.. There are others that at first glance I loved them but didn't like how they were supposed to be used or the results they delivered just were not satisfying.
Must have brushes: EYES-
*Basic shadow brush of medium size that can grab color properly and deposit it to your lid. This brush should be slightly firm. I use the 252 brush from MAC (I find it very necessary to own this brush or one like it)
*Blending brush should be soft but sturdy so that you're able to control the bristles and have the shadow go where you want it to go. I use the 217 and or the 224 brush from MAC. I prefer the 217 because it is much more dense than the 224 but the 224 is great for subtle color deposit. These brushes blend the harsh line the basic shadow brush can leave however, in my experience I have used the 252 brush from MAC for light blending of harsh lines and has proved to be effective. (because of the semi stiffness of this brush beware of over blending. You can irritate/scratch the lid)
*Small shadow brush for those hard to reach corners and/or depositing shadow to the inner eye and lower lash line. (I use a small rounded very stiff brush from Sonia Kashuk- I LOVE this brush it can even be used as a liner brush)
*If you use gel liner or would like to use shadow to line you lids and lower lash line it would be good to invest in an angled liner brush like the 208 brush from MAC. I find this brush to be most helpful in achieving a straight line. I've used the 209 form MAC (the pointed liner brush but it requires a lot of precision and steady hand movement)
Must have brushes:FACE-
*Foundation brush-depending on the type of foundation you use. Whenever I use liquid foundation I use a
*Stippling brush (MAC, Sephora, Coastal Scents and even Walgreen's have them. They are great!)
If I'm using cream foundation, I use a
*190 brush from MAC (It looks like a paint brush)
If I'm using powder foundation I use a powder brush like the
*129 brush from MAC
or the
*168 angled brush from MAC -this brush is made for blush and contouring but I have used it for powdering my face as well. I also use this brush for contouring and blush and sometimes with my setting powder.
I don't think it's necessary to buy lip brushes unless your a Makeup Artist (we don't apply lipstick from the tube onto clients). But if you personally like the effect the brush leaves by all means go ahead and purchase that brush!
I think these are all the brushes for now. I'll be sure to update this blog if I notice anything missing or come across something new :)
**Please note: It is not necessary to purchase MAC brushes, there are many brushes out there that are just as good. I used MAC brushes as suggestions and examples because those are the ones I use and like.
XOXO
Mel
Thursday, April 9, 2009
MAC-Deep Truth VS.L'Oreal HIP-Retro/238 duo shadow
Yes Yes yes... I found a dupe!!! for MAC Deep Truth! It's L'Oreal HIP Retro/number 238 duo eye shadow. The color is pretty much the same. Deep Truth might be slightly darker but literally only slightly, I found that the HIP color is much smoother to apply and takes very little product to get the color you see in the pot. Deep Truth on the other hand is not as smooth when applying and I found myself doing multiple applications (3-4 to be exact) to get the true color. Once applied, they are just beautiful... Both shadows! The MAC shadow costs $14.00 while the HIP shadow (which comes with another color on the side. I think it's also a fabulous color and a mirror and applicator in the lower compartment) costs about $6.99. Not bad at all....
XOXO
Mel
Revlon Colorstay Foundation
I purchased quite a few of these from CVS for $12.99? more or less that amount. They often have sales buy one get one free which is great!
So this foundation is pretty darn good. I must admit. The consistency is of a thick liquid. When they named this product Colorstay they truly meant Colorstay! This stuff does not come off! and dries quickly so blend! blend! blend! ASAP. I do wish they had more of a shade selection. I happen to be in between two shades so I find myself buying two bottles (Warm golden and Natural tan).
Although most people are not just one foundation shade (only if you're lucky) but the difference for me is I need pretty much equal parts of both shades so I can't really get away with wearing just one. UNLESS I get a nice tan during the summer maybe, just maybe I can wear the darker one (Natural tan). Overall this happens to be a good product.
Whenever I'm not using my mineral foundation (from my line) or MAC or Laura Mercier I'm definitely using Revlon Colorstay.
XOXO
Mel
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
What about my brows???
Hi!
The Conversation about what eye brows should look like has come up quite a few times... What are eye brows really suppose to look like? shapes? length? thickness? Okay, here's the run down..
Your eye brows should start where the inner corner of your eye begins. Your arch should be diagonal to your pupil and they should end where the outer corner of your eye ends. I know we're all not perfect and a lot of us don't have the basic length I just described. That's where filling in the brows comes in. It's perfectly fine to fill your brows. HOWEVER it is not okay to draw your brows. It is fashionably and socially unacceptable and just plain old TACKY....
As a Makeup Artist I would never EVER draw on my clients brows no matter what.. Whether he or she had severely sparse brows or the length just didn't meet my satisfaction. Using a pencil is fine but in small strokes almost like dabs then be sure to buff the brow so the cream can blend in. I personally prefer powder. You just dab an angled brush into a few colors (to get the color you want. If one color isn't enough) and in short strokes you brush onto the brow. I find that using powder gives the illusion of a more natural look and it's very soft on the eyes. It's not obvious that you have temporary perfect brows :)
As for thickness, you should only darken the thickness of your natural brow. Not thicker than what it is. Then you just look clownish and point of makeup for the everyday women is to enhance what you have not to be comical UNLESS, you really are a clown and exaggeration is your thing then by all means, knock yourself out!
For those of you who read this blog and happen to draw on your brows please don't take any personal offense to my opinion on the drawing method. It is well known and highly voiced in the industry that drawing on your brows is just not cool. Don't believe me? ask any other makeup Artist.
XOXO
Mel
The Conversation about what eye brows should look like has come up quite a few times... What are eye brows really suppose to look like? shapes? length? thickness? Okay, here's the run down..
Your eye brows should start where the inner corner of your eye begins. Your arch should be diagonal to your pupil and they should end where the outer corner of your eye ends. I know we're all not perfect and a lot of us don't have the basic length I just described. That's where filling in the brows comes in. It's perfectly fine to fill your brows. HOWEVER it is not okay to draw your brows. It is fashionably and socially unacceptable and just plain old TACKY....
As a Makeup Artist I would never EVER draw on my clients brows no matter what.. Whether he or she had severely sparse brows or the length just didn't meet my satisfaction. Using a pencil is fine but in small strokes almost like dabs then be sure to buff the brow so the cream can blend in. I personally prefer powder. You just dab an angled brush into a few colors (to get the color you want. If one color isn't enough) and in short strokes you brush onto the brow. I find that using powder gives the illusion of a more natural look and it's very soft on the eyes. It's not obvious that you have temporary perfect brows :)
As for thickness, you should only darken the thickness of your natural brow. Not thicker than what it is. Then you just look clownish and point of makeup for the everyday women is to enhance what you have not to be comical UNLESS, you really are a clown and exaggeration is your thing then by all means, knock yourself out!
For those of you who read this blog and happen to draw on your brows please don't take any personal offense to my opinion on the drawing method. It is well known and highly voiced in the industry that drawing on your brows is just not cool. Don't believe me? ask any other makeup Artist.
XOXO
Mel
Face Primer???
Hi!
Face Primer is basically a base, like there’s an Eye shadow base, there’s pretty much a base for every part of your face but we’ll get into that later..
Face Primer is used after your moisturizer but before your concealer and foundation. The Primer helps to smooth out your skin so when you add your foundation you have a more flawless look. It also helps to keep your makeup in place for a longer period of time. It’s not necessary to use this daily (unless you want to. If you even want to at all) I usually use this when I’m either going out or am having one of those days.. You know, the why does my face look blotchy or reddy or why does my face feel ruff or dry today???.. those days! Some People/other Makeup Artist don’t feel it’s necessary to add an extra step into your makeup application and it’s fine to feel that way. It’s really up to you if you’d like to try something new or you have certain issues or plan on going out and would like to look a certain way. Some if the Primers I've tried and like are:
1. MAC Prep+Prime-has sort of a shimmer (but not glitter) sheen to it. It is a creamy white consistency.
2. Tarte Clean Slate Face Primer-leaves your skin feeling softer than a baby’s bottom LITERALLY! It is a clear creamy consistency.
3. Makeup Forever HD Micro Perfecting Primer-it’s very similar in consistency to the MAC Prep+Prime but without the sparkle.
4. Smash box Photo Finish Foundation Primer- Very similar in consistency to the Tarte Clean Slate Primer and also leaves your skin feeling oh so smooth. It is said that the Primer is made for taking photos hence the name Photo Finish. I have yet to take a photo using the primer to compare the difference (if it’s better than any other or not, but this will be on my “to do list”).
5. Monistat Chafting cream- YES YES I know!! this is a girly stuff kind of product.. Monistat stuff on your face ewwww.. BUT... after reading reviews and watching reviews on youtube, I was suddenly in need of one of these tubes of miracle stuff.. It is truly wonderful. At a fraction of the price of all of the above brands I mentioned, this stuff is really good. It doesn't irritate or cause you to grow a third eye. it's Fabulous!
6.Laura Mercier Foundation Primer-This stuff is nice. Not my favorite out of the bunch but it's pretty good. smells nice too :)
Hope this was of some help to someone out there.
XOXO
Mel
Face Primer is basically a base, like there’s an Eye shadow base, there’s pretty much a base for every part of your face but we’ll get into that later..
Face Primer is used after your moisturizer but before your concealer and foundation. The Primer helps to smooth out your skin so when you add your foundation you have a more flawless look. It also helps to keep your makeup in place for a longer period of time. It’s not necessary to use this daily (unless you want to. If you even want to at all) I usually use this when I’m either going out or am having one of those days.. You know, the why does my face look blotchy or reddy or why does my face feel ruff or dry today???.. those days! Some People/other Makeup Artist don’t feel it’s necessary to add an extra step into your makeup application and it’s fine to feel that way. It’s really up to you if you’d like to try something new or you have certain issues or plan on going out and would like to look a certain way. Some if the Primers I've tried and like are:
1. MAC Prep+Prime-has sort of a shimmer (but not glitter) sheen to it. It is a creamy white consistency.
2. Tarte Clean Slate Face Primer-leaves your skin feeling softer than a baby’s bottom LITERALLY! It is a clear creamy consistency.
3. Makeup Forever HD Micro Perfecting Primer-it’s very similar in consistency to the MAC Prep+Prime but without the sparkle.
4. Smash box Photo Finish Foundation Primer- Very similar in consistency to the Tarte Clean Slate Primer and also leaves your skin feeling oh so smooth. It is said that the Primer is made for taking photos hence the name Photo Finish. I have yet to take a photo using the primer to compare the difference (if it’s better than any other or not, but this will be on my “to do list”).
5. Monistat Chafting cream- YES YES I know!! this is a girly stuff kind of product.. Monistat stuff on your face ewwww.. BUT... after reading reviews and watching reviews on youtube, I was suddenly in need of one of these tubes of miracle stuff.. It is truly wonderful. At a fraction of the price of all of the above brands I mentioned, this stuff is really good. It doesn't irritate or cause you to grow a third eye. it's Fabulous!
6.Laura Mercier Foundation Primer-This stuff is nice. Not my favorite out of the bunch but it's pretty good. smells nice too :)
Hope this was of some help to someone out there.
XOXO
Mel
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